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Zagreb

Two days in April 2017, from the main square up to the Upper Town, with St Mark's tiled roof and the cathedral's twin spires.

Best hangout spots

"It's a lovely place to people watch, hang out and feel the Croatian vibes."

Us, March 2019

We flew into Zagreb from Edinburgh, changing in Paris, and landed on the afternoon of 26 April 2017. The rest of that day and the next, we explored the centre: Ban Jelačić Square, the Upper Town on the hill above it, and the Art Pavilion. Two years later we picked our favourite hangout spots for our old site.

  1. Ban Jelačić Square26 AprFlight from Edinburgh, via Paris
  2. Upper TownSt Mark's · 26 AprOn foot
  3. Art Pavilion27 Apr
The fountain on Ban Jelačić Square at dusk, lit up in front of the glowing façades
Ban Josip Jelačić on horseback, sabre raised, against a stormy skyThe yellow Art Pavilion under its dome, beyond a fountain lit pink and white at dusk
Flew in
26 Apr 2017 · via Paris
Statue
Ban Josip Jelačić
Next day
The Art Pavilion

Ban Jelačić Square and the Art Pavilion

In our words, 2019The central meeting point in the city, Jelačić Square is a beautiful place to relax and hang out.

Our first stop was the main square. Ban Josip Jelačić rides across it on horseback with his sabre raised, in front of ornate yellow and cream buildings. We came back at dusk, when the lights came on around the square and the fountain glowed.

The next day we found the Art Pavilion, a yellow building under a dome, with a park and a fountain in front. It sits in the centre of the city, and it's an idyllic place to relax. As the light went, the fountain was lit pink and white.

St Mark's Church, its tiled roof patterned with two coats of arms, under a dramatic sky
Baskets of red hearts and painted souvenirs on a shop tableA tall building with a giant blue whale painted across its dark façade
Visited
26 Apr 2017
Getting up
On foot, or the funicular
Church
St Mark's

The Upper Town

In our words, 2019The streets are lined with cute little shops that are a delight.

From the square we walked up to the Upper Town. There's a funicular as well, and the walk takes you past the sights on the way. One shop table was heaped with red hearts and painted souvenirs. "Handmade love", we called it.

St Mark's Church stands in its own square, and it's one of the most photographed churches in the city. Its tiled roof is patterned in red, white and blue, with two coats of arms.

From the edge of the Upper Town we looked out over red roofs to the cathedral's twin spires. Up there we also found a building with a giant blue whale painted across its dark walls.

From our bookings

  • It's one change from Edinburgh. In April 2017, Air France's 08:40 from Edinburgh reached Paris Charles de Gaulle at 11:30, and the 12:20 connection landed in Zagreb at 14:15. That left the rest of the day for the city.

Our tips, 2019

  • Walk up to the Upper Town. There's a funicular, but we'd recommend the walk. It takes you past the sights on the way.
  • Stand back for St Mark's. For the best shot, stand about 50 metres from the church. That puts you in the middle of the street, so pay attention while you're deep into photography.

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