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Sweden

Four days by hire car on the west coast in August 2019, from a lake near Gothenburg up to Fjällbacka and the Weather Islands, then south to Tjörn and Marstrand.

A west coast road trip

"This particular trip we rented a car, and it was one fantastic road trip."

Meenu, December 2019

We flew from London to Gothenburg in late August 2019 and picked up a hire car at Landvetter airport just after midnight. After a first night by a lake outside the city, we drove north to Fjällbacka, the farthest point of the trip, and took a boat out to the Weather Islands. Then we came south to Tjörn for two nights on Klädesholmen, crossing the bridges between the islands, and finished on Marstrand before driving back to the airport. Meenu wrote two posts about the trip for our old blog, and her tips are at the end of this page.

  1. HällsnäsNear Gothenburg · 23–24 AugFlight from London, then hire car
  2. Fjällbacka24–25 AugDrive north
  3. Weather IslandsDay trip · 25 AugBoat
  4. KlädesholmenTjörn · 25–27 AugDrive south
  5. PilaneSculpture park · 26 Aug
  6. MarstrandLast stop · 27 AugShort ferry
Two white cabins at the edge of a still lake, mirrored in the water among the lily pads
Area
Near Gothenburg
Stayed
23–24 Aug 2019 · 1 night
Hotel
Hällsnäs Hotell & Restaurang

Hällsnäs

In Meenu's words, 2019Although Gothenburg is a big city, there is a wonderfully located, idyllic spot in nature where we stayed.

Our car came from a machine. Hertz at Landvetter ran its pick-up through an automated kiosk, and working it out straight off the plane was a puzzle. As Meenu put it, "it wasn't the best time to be solving puzzles with a machine." We drove off in a Volvo V60 just after midnight on 24 August.

Our first night was at Hällsnäs, by a lake outside the city. Its cabins have jacuzzis, for unwinding and forgetting everyday life, and we celebrated a birthday there with a cake on a table by the water.

In the morning the lake was still. Lily pads covered the shallows, and the white cabins and the trees stood mirrored in the water.

Fjällbacka from the water: white houses with red roofs below a church spire and a granite cliff
Stayed
24–25 Aug 2019 · 1 night
Hotel
Marinan Richters
Getting there
Drive north

Fjällbacka

In Meenu's words, 2019This cute little town is filled with alleyways that are lovely to explore.

On 24 August we drove north to Fjällbacka, the farthest point of the trip, and spent the night at Marinan Richters. In the morning we walked the lanes. White and yellow wooden houses with red-tiled roofs line the slope, with flowers by the steps and the church spire above them, and a wall of bare granite rises behind the town.

Fjällbacka is a good place to stay for the Weather Islands, and that's where we went next. From the water we could see the whole town at once, strung along the shore below the cliff.

Red boathouses and a moored motorboat mirrored in a sheltered harbour on the Weather Islands
Visited
25 Aug 2019
Getting there
Boat trip
We saw
Bare granite · a harbour of red cabins

The Weather Islands

In Meenu's words, 2019This is a must visit with a boat trip, to let go and forget the stress of everyday life.

On 25 August, Meenu's birthday, we took a boat out to the Weather Islands, the rocky islands off this coast. They sit low in the sea, rounded and bare, with only a little green in the hollows.

In a sheltered harbour, red boathouses and white cottages stood at the water's edge, and sailing boats were moored between the rocks. The water was calm enough to mirror them all. On the way back we passed Fjällbacka's yellow harbour buildings under the cliff, and later that day we drove south to Tjörn.

Klädesholmen at blue hour, its lights doubled in the water, with red boathouses below the rocks
Island
Tjörn
Stayed
25–27 Aug 2019 · 2 nights
Stay
Airbnb apartment

Tjörn and Klädesholmen

In Meenu's words, 2019Klädesholmen has some of the best views overlooking the islands.

Tjörn is within easy reach of Gothenburg. We spent two days exploring it by road, over the bridges that link the islands, and had two nights in an Airbnb apartment on Klädesholmen.

On our second evening we watched the sun go down into the sea between the low islands. As the sky turned deep blue, the village lights came on and doubled in the still water, with the red boathouses dark below the rocks. The next morning we sat out on the rocks and looked back across the water at Klädesholmen.

Anna, the giant white head, rising above the granite and heather at Pilane
Visited
26 Aug 2019
Park
Skulptur i Pilane
Sculpture
Anna, by Jaume Plensa

Pilane

In Meenu's words, 2019Unlike other sculpture parks, this one has a unique setting, with wildlife in the scenery.

On the afternoon of 26 August we went to Skulptur i Pilane, a sculpture park on a rocky hillside. High on the granite stands Anna, Jaume Plensa's giant white head with its eyes closed. We could still see her from across the fields below.

Sheep grazed the long grass and the heather between the rocks. Meenu went up to Anna and waved from the foot of the sculpture, tiny beside it.

Meenu and Praddy on the wooden bridge at the stone gateway of Carlsten fortress
Visited
27 Aug 2019
Getting there
Short ferry ride
Cars
None, the island is car free

Marstrand

In Meenu's words, 2019The island is car free, and free to explore at leisure.

Marstrand was our last stop, a short ferry ride across the water. There are no cars on the island. We walked up to Carlsten fortress through lanes of wooden houses painted pale blue, yellow, white and orange, with café tables and pots of flowers outside. At the fortress we stood on the wooden bridge at its stone gateway.

From Marstrand we drove back to Landvetter and returned the car at 18:58. In four days it had covered 450 km.

From our bookings

  • Fill the tank before you hand the car back. We returned our Hertz car 8 litres short in 2019 and were charged SEK 384 at the end: about SEK 134 for the fuel and a SEK 250 refuelling fee.
  • Unlimited mileage helps on this coast. Our four-day rental from Landvetter had no mileage limit, and we drove 450 km.
  • Apartments keep costs down. Our Airbnb apartment on Klädesholmen worked out at about SEK 1,000 a night in 2019.

Meenu's tips, 2019

  • Hire a car for the west coast. Most places in Sweden are well connected by public transport, but for these villages we rented a car, and it was a fantastic road trip.
  • Find the Hertz machine at Landvetter. In 2019, pick-up and drop-off ran through an automated machine. It takes your driving licence and card, hands out the keys and tells you the aisle where the car is parked. It was in the parking building across the road from the terminal, reached through an automated door or the car entrance. Give yourself time after a long flight.
  • Stay in Fjällbacka for the Weather Islands. The town is a good base, and the islands are a must by boat. They're extremely windy, so summer is the time to go.
  • Try Hamburgsund too. Take a boat trip from Fjällbacka, or drive around to the surrounding islands.
  • Say "Shorn". That's how Tjörn is pronounced.
  • Leave the car for Marstrand. The island is car free and a short ferry ride away. The walk up to Carlsten fortress takes you through its alleyways.
  • Look out for the long shoe horns. Every hotel and Airbnb we stayed in had one, sometimes two. They're long enough that you don't need to bend, with a U-bend at the top for hanging them up. IKEA sells them.
  • Expect unisex toilets. Most public toilets are unisex, even at Gothenburg airport.

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