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Cook Islands

Meenu's birthday in August 2024: one night on Rarotonga, then a week on Aitutaki and its lagoon.

A birthday in the Cook Islands

"Cheers to this moment celebrating another year travelling around the sun!"

Meenu, August 2024

We went to the Cook Islands for Meenu's birthday. Praddy planned it all, and every flight and bed was booked in the last week of January, seven months ahead. Hawaiian Airlines flew us from San Francisco to Rarotonga through Honolulu, and we used the five-and-a-half-hour stopover for a drive out to Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden. After one night on Rarotonga we flew to Aitutaki on Meenu's birthday. We spent a week around its lagoon, first at Etu Moana and then at a private island resort with villas over the water. We left late on 1 September and stopped in Honolulu again on the way home.

  1. HonoluluStopover · 24 Aug 2024Hawaiian from San Francisco
  2. RarotongaLittle Polynesian · 24–25 AugHawaiian
  3. AitutakiEtu Moana, then a private island · 25 Aug–1 SepAir Rarotonga
  4. HonoluluStopover, then home · 2 SepAir Rarotonga, then Hawaiian
Meenu standing in the shallow lagoon at Little Polynesian, with waves breaking on the reef behind her
Island
Rarotonga
Stayed
24–25 Aug 2024 · 1 night
Room
Beachfront Bungalow

Little Polynesian

In Meenu's words, 2024Little Polynesian and Cook Islands, a slice of heaven on earth.

Our flight from Honolulu was due on Rarotonga at 10:25 at night. A transfer took us to Little Polynesian for one night in a beachfront bungalow, so we only saw the lagoon in the morning. It was turquoise and shallow, right off the sand, with waves breaking on the reef further out.

That morning was Meenu's birthday. Her cake was lilac and covered in butterflies, and she called it one of the prettiest and tastiest cakes ever, a work of art.

Praddy had planned every step, and Meenu's birthday post was for him. She was amazed at "the meticulously and well executed plan beyond all the challenges that throw your way". That afternoon we flew on to Aitutaki.

Palms leaning over the white sand of One Foot Island, with the pale lagoon beyond
Island
Aitutaki
Arrived
25 Aug 2024 · Air Rarotonga
First base
Etu Moana · beach-view villa

Aitutaki and its lagoon

In Meenu's words, 2024Cruising through the glass-like water in one of the world's most beautiful lagoons.

Air Rarotonga flew us to Aitutaki on the afternoon of Meenu's birthday, 50 minutes from Rarotonga. Our first base was Etu Moana, where we had booked a beach-view villa.

We took a cruise across the lagoon. At One Foot Island, palms lean over white sand, and we danced in the clear shallows. The birthday celebrations went on out here too, on a strip of white sand in the lagoon with a blue cool box at our feet.

On one swim a giant trevally circled Meenu. Praddy saw it coming and said nothing, and the video caught her reaction.

Island
Aitutaki
We came for
A sunset island dinner
Drinks
Sunset cocktails

Sunset at Pacific Resort

In Meenu's words, 2024Sunset skies and cocktails.

One evening we went to Pacific Resort Aitutaki, run by the same group as Little Polynesian, for a sunset island dinner. Meenu was ready on the beach as the sun went down behind a bank of cloud on the horizon.

We had cocktails there as well, while the sky turned orange over a row of kayaks on the sand.

The two of us in matching striped T-shirts at a wooden table at Avatea Cafe, with our food and drinks
Café
Avatea Cafe
We ate
Veggie tacos · an off-menu curry
Beach
Ootu

Avatea Cafe and Ootu Beach

In Meenu's words, 2024It's matchy matchy day at this super raving and lovely cafe at Aitutaki.

We turned up at Avatea Cafe in matching striped T-shirts. Meenu called the food the most mouthwatering, delicious and freshly produced. We had veggie tacos made with clean ingredients, and Meenu had her first try of sea grapes. The chefs also made us an Indian veggie curry that wasn't on the menu, and she said it tasted fantastic.

On a grey day at Ootu Beach, the white sand ran out into pale, shallow water, with green hills across the lagoon.

The pool at Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort, with palms, loungers and the beach beyond
Lagoon
Aitutaki
Stayed
30 Aug–1 Sep 2024 · 2 nights
Villa
Overwater lagoon villa · with breakfast

Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort

In Meenu's words, 2024Aitutaki Lagoon is perfect for a pitch dark, minimal light pollution and settings to enable seeing countless stars and Milky Way for the naked eye.

For our last two nights we moved to Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort, on its own island in the lagoon. Our villa stood over the water. Meenu filmed a tour of it, drawing back the curtains to the lagoon.

Days here were slow. We had breakfast with a view, biked around the island, fed the fish and spent time out on the lagoon. There was game time too: ping pong, foosball, darts, snooker, boxing, a guitar and a ukulele, which Meenu picked up.

Even after a tiring day, the night sky made Praddy pull out the tripod and camera. He waited out clouds and showers for a good shot, and the Milky Way picture here is his, taken on a Sony a7 III with an 18 mm f/2.8 Zeiss lens.

On 1 September, our last day, we had a traditional Cook Islands massage booked. That evening Air Rarotonga took us back to Rarotonga for Hawaiian's 23:35 flight to Honolulu, and we were back in San Francisco the next night.

From our bookings

  • Use the Honolulu stopover. Hawaiian flew us from San Francisco to Rarotonga and back through Honolulu for US$946.20 each. The tickets were non-refundable, with no fee to change them. Both connections were daytime stopovers, five and a half hours on the way out and eight on the way back. That was long enough to rent a car at the airport for a few hours.
  • Flight times move. Between booking in January and flying in August, four of our six flights were retimed. Air Rarotonga's flight to Aitutaki moved from 11:15 to 13:30, and the one back from 17:10 to 19:40. Check again before you go.
  • Air Rarotonga's flexible fare. The 50-minute flight between Rarotonga and Aitutaki was NZ$262 each way per person, with a 23 kg bag. It could be changed or refunded up to two hours before departure.
  • Stay on Aitutaki until the last evening. Hawaiian's flight to Honolulu left Rarotonga at 23:35. The 19:40 flight from Aitutaki landed at 20:30, so our last day was still on Aitutaki.
  • What the beds cost. Little Polynesian was NZ$1,080 for a night in a beachfront bungalow, at SLH's INVITED member rate. Etu Moana was NZ$888.25 a night for a beach-view villa. Aitutaki Lagoon was NZ$963.60 a night with breakfast, paid in full when we booked.
  • Read what the room rate covers. At Little Polynesian it covered breakfast, a welcome drink, Wi-Fi and the kayaks and paddleboards. The return airport transfer was NZ$200 extra. The resort takes guests aged 18 and over only, and it wanted a 25% deposit within 48 hours, with the rest due 14 days before arrival.
  • No drones at the Pacific Resort hotels. Little Polynesian's confirmation says every Pacific Resort Hotel Group property is a no-drone zone.

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