Malaysia & Singapore

Kuala Lumpur

Our verdictOne of the most beautiful skylines in the world.

Our Airbnb was a three-bedroom apartment for six, with a balcony facing the city. The Petronas Twin Towers and the KL Tower stood across the rooftops, and we watched them light up at dusk.

We went up the Petronas Towers too. Security was strict: tripods and GoPro handles had to go in a locker at the entrance. Everyone was split into groups, each with a guide and a coloured tag to wear the whole time. There were two stops, the Skybridge on the 41st floor and the observation deck on the 86th floor of Tower Two, with 10 to 15 minutes at each, so it felt a bit rushed. Go in the late afternoon, around sunset, for the golden hour and the blue sky.

Batu Caves, the Hindu shrine to Lord Murugan, is best early in the day. From about 9:30 or 10 it gets crowded, and going early means you climb the steps in the shade. Monkeys and peacocks wander about, so treat them with care and don't feed them. Thean Hou Temple, six tiers high on its hill, is better in the late afternoon, when there are fewer crowds. Stay on into the evening for a quiet, meditative time. Both are free.

We also went up into the hills to Colmar Tropicale, a French-themed village at Bukit Tinggi, with half-timbered houses, a clock-tower gate and swans on the pond. Back in the city, the malls are good for a short stroll on a scorching afternoon. Suria KLCC and Sunway Pyramid are worth a visit.

Langkawi

Our verdictA great value for money holiday paradise for sea lovers.

We flew in on AirAsia. Travelling with extended family, we chose an Airbnb, a hilltop villa that sleeps twelve, with separate bedrooms and one big shared space for games and fun. There's no public transport on Langkawi, so we'd highly recommend renting a car. Pre-book it, pick it up at the airport when you land and drop it back there when you leave. Booking ahead can save you over 50%.

For a day on the water we chose Naam Adventure. There are a number of operators, so check the reviews. Naam is a bit expensive, but the quality, service and hospitality were exceptional, and we'd definitely recommend them. Our four-hour private tour took us to a secluded island, through the mangroves, to the Island of the Pregnant Maiden and out to watch eagles. That island is named for its shape, like a pregnant woman lying down. Legend says any woman who drinks from the freshwater lake at its heart will conceive.

Naam also owns a private island, Paradise 101. The team met us on the beach with drinks, and we spent more than half a day there: a relaxed lunch on the beach, more drinks, jet skis and rides on a ring towed behind one.

In Kuah town, Eagle Square has a 12-metre eagle poised to take off. The square marks where Langkawi's name comes from: helang is Malay for eagle, and kawi a reddish-brown stone used for marking goods. We went at sunset, and it was one of the most magical sunsets we've ever had. Kuah also has a duty-free supermarket, Billion, mostly for chocolates, drinks and tobacco.

The SkyCab felt like riding inside a drone. It's a must on Langkawi and the queues get long, so go early in the morning. We took the glass-bottom gondola and would recommend it, though it costs a little more. There's only one for every ten normal cars, but it has its own, shorter VIP queue, so the wait evens out. The ride is 2.2 km and takes about 15 minutes to the top. From there the SkyGlide takes you down to the SkyBridge, which curves 125 metres around a single support. You can feel it sway in the wind. The views of Mount Mat Cincang are worth it, though the crowds can be a bit much. For Bollywood fans: the last scene of Don was filmed here.

We found ourselves going back again and again to Hotel Malaysia Restaurant, for delicious home-style Indo-Malaysian food. It's inexpensive, and the owner is very friendly.

Singapore

Our verdictA travel destination not to be missed.

We landed at Changi's Terminal 4, piled our bags into a van and drove into the city past the Singapore Flyer. Our Airbnb was on Marina Boulevard, high up among the glass towers. We sat out on the balcony looking across Marina Bay to the city, and at dusk we swam in a pool facing Marina Bay Sands.

We'd bought six tickets for Gardens by the Bay online, two weeks before. We walked under the Supertrees and into the Cloud Forest, where a waterfall pours down a mountain of plants and walkways wind around it. We also flew the drone over Marina Barrage, where the family sat on the grass roof and waved up at it.

At Jurong Bird Park we walked by its big waterfall, watched the flamingos on their lake and found the macaws and cockatoos in Parrot Paradise. Jurong Bird Park has since closed. In 2023 its birds moved to Bird Paradise at Mandai. We also walked under arches of yellow orchids and past a pond of giant water lilies.

The city was dressed for Lunar New Year, with pink blossom arches filling a mall and a red pavilion in the lobby of Marina Bay Sands. One night we went to Lau Pa Sat, where the satay comes straight off the grill. After dark we watched the Supertrees light up, and the bay glowed below our balcony.