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Switzerland

Four days around the Jungfrau in September 2019, from an apartment in Wengen. Before that, one summer day in Geneva in 2015.

Four days under the Jungfrau

"Back in Interlaken after almost 10 years!"

Meenu, September 2019

easyJet flew us to Geneva on 27 September 2019, and we took the train across to Interlaken. That afternoon we were out on Lake Brienz, and by evening we were up in Wengen, in an apartment we had for three nights. From there the mountain trains did the rest. We rode up to Kleine Scheidegg and down to Grindelwald, took the gondola to First, and went up through the rock to the Jungfraujoch. On the 30th the train took us back to Geneva for the flight home.

  1. Geneva27 Sep 2019easyJet
  2. Lake BrienzInterlaken · 27 SepTrain via Lausanne and Bern
  3. WengenChalet Rose · 27–30 SepTrain via Lauterbrunnen
  4. Kleine Scheidegg28 SepRack railway
  5. GrindelwaldFirst by gondola · 28 Sep
  6. Jungfraujoch3,571 m · 29 SepJungfrau Railway
  7. FirstBachalpsee · 30 SepGondola
  8. Geneva30 SepTrain, then easyJet home
Turquoise Lake Brienz under streaks of cloud, with wooded slopes running down to the water
Near
Interlaken
Sailed
27 Sep 2019 · afternoon
Getting there
Train from Geneva to Interlaken Ost

Lake Brienz

In Meenu's words, 2019The greenest and bluest of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

Our train left Geneva at 11:00. It ran above Lake Geneva and the vineyards on its slopes, and we changed at Bern for the last leg, an ICE that pulled into Interlaken Ost at 13:57.

We spent the afternoon on a boat on Lake Brienz. The water was a bright, clear turquoise, paler than the forest around it. Chalets sat on the slopes above the shore. At Iseltwald a big chalet with rows of wooden balconies stood right at the water's edge, with sailing boats moored in front. A bell hung at the bow, and we took turns at the rail.

Meenu filmed the lake on her iPhone 11 and posted it the next day with no edits, colour corrections or filters.

The Jungfrau glowing white above Wengen's lights at blue hour
Stayed
27–30 Sep 2019 · 3 nights
Stay
Chalet Rose, an Interhome apartment booked on Airbnb
Getting there
Train from Interlaken Ost, then rack railway from Lauterbrunnen

Wengen

Wengen was our base for three nights. Meenu found us an apartment in Chalet Rose on Airbnb. It's run by Interhome, who kept the keys at their office in the village.

The way up to Wengen is by rack railway from Lauterbrunnen. On the first evening the little yellow-and-green train carried us up, pink suitcase and all.

The village sits high on the side of the Lauterbrunnen valley, and the valley drops away below it between sheer grey cliffs. In the morning we stood at a railing above it, with cloud sitting on the tops. In the evening the Jungfrau still glowed white above the village after the lights came on.

Kleine Scheidegg's hotel below glacier-hung peaks, with a red Jungfrau Railway train on the line
Visited
28 Sep 2019 · back on the 29th
Getting there
Rack railway from Wengen
Peaks
Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau

Kleine Scheidegg

On the 28th we took the rack railway on up from Wengen. It climbed above the village roofs and out onto open alp, with glaciers ahead and a small pond holding the clouds.

Kleine Scheidegg sits right under the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau, with cloud catching on their tops. The red Jungfrau Railway trains leave from here for the Jungfraujoch. One was wrapped in a Tissot advert, and Meenu posed beside it.

The next evening, on our way down from the Jungfraujoch, the low sun turned all three peaks gold. We caught the train down to Wengen as the light went.

A white chalet behind a garden of yellow and pink flowers in Grindelwald, with a great rock peak rising behind
Visited
28 Sep 2019
Up to First
Gondola from the village
We did
The First Cliff Walk

Grindelwald

From Kleine Scheidegg we came down the other side to Grindelwald. The Wetterhorn showed through the trees on the way. On the main street a yellow hotel had red shutters and flower boxes, and one white chalet had a garden full of yellow and pink flowers.

That afternoon we rode the gondola up to First. Up top the grass had turned gold, and cloud was building on the peaks. We walked out on the Cliff Walk, a metal walkway along the rock with a platform out over the drop, and looked in at the wooden mountain restaurant before the gondola took us back down over the chalets.

On the train back to Wengen, the last of the sun turned one peak pink.

The Aletsch glacier stretching away between dark ridges under a clear sky
Visited
29 Sep 2019
Height
3,571 m
Getting there
Jungfrau Railway from Kleine Scheidegg
Glacier
Aletsch

The Jungfraujoch

We were on the train early on the 29th, while the alp was still in shadow. Above Kleine Scheidegg the Jungfrau Railway runs into the mountain. On the way up it stopped at a window in the rock, and we looked out over a glacier split by crevasses.

At the top a blue wall told us where we were: Jungfraujoch, Top of Europe, 3,571 m. From the terrace the Aletsch glacier ran away between the peaks as far as we could see. The Jungfrau rose right behind us against a deep blue sky, and on the other side, far below, lay the green valleys we had come up from.

We stayed until late afternoon. We walked out onto the snow, held a hot drink by the window, and went through the Ice Palace, where the tunnels are cut into the ice and a block of ice is carved with the words Top of Europe.

Meenu and Praddy sitting on the rocks above the Grindelwald valley, with cloud along the peaks
Visited
30 Sep 2019
Getting there
Gondola from Grindelwald
We did
The walk to the Bachalpsee · the Cliff Walk

First and the Bachalpsee

On our last day we checked out of the apartment and went back up to First. This time we walked on to the Bachalpsee, a lake in a hollow between grassy ridges. Cloud sat along the peaks behind it, and we sat on a bench by the water.

On the way back we sat on the rocks above the Grindelwald valley for one last view, then went out on the Cliff Walk once more.

Then it was time to go. We caught the 16:30 from Interlaken Ost, changed at Bern, and were in Geneva at 19:18 for the easyJet flight home.

A day in Geneva, 2015

Four years earlier, at the end of August 2015, we stopped in Geneva on the way home from Croatia. easyJet flew us in, and a second easyJet flight took us home. We had one summer day to walk the city.

  1. CroatiaSplit and Plitvice · from 23 Aug 2015Jet2 from Edinburgh
  2. Geneva31 AugeasyJet
  3. Home31 AugeasyJet
The Jet d'Eau shooting high above Lake Geneva, with hills beyond the far shore
Visited
31 Aug 2015 · one day
Came from
Croatia
Flights
easyJet in · easyJet home

Geneva

It was a bright summer day. We walked the lakefront, where the Jet d'Eau throws a white column of water high over the lake, and took turns posing with it behind us. A lake boat crossed in front of it, and the bridge into town was hung with flags.

In the park by the water we found the flower clock, its face planted in red and yellow, and Meenu stood beside it. We went up to the cathedral's columned front in the old town, and stopped by the Rhône, where the water ran clear and a swan drifted below us.

From our bookings

  • Book Swiss trains early. We booked Supersaver tickets on Trainline two weeks ahead. Geneva to Interlaken Ost cost CHF 32.40 each on the way out and CHF 50.40 each on the way back. Each ticket was only valid on the train we booked, with no route changes or upgrades.
  • Wengen is up a rack railway. The apartment's papers said the last stretch is by rack railway from Lauterbrunnen, with parking at the station there. Our point-to-point ticket from Interlaken Ost to Wengen was CHF 14.40 each in 2019.
  • Mind the key handover. Interhome handed over keys at its Wengen office between 15:00 and 18:00, and later arrivals had to be agreed in advance. Check-out was by 10:00.
  • Budget for the local tax. Wengen added CHF 4.30 per adult per night, paid locally on top of the rental.
  • An apartment keeps costs down. Our three nights in Chalet Rose came to £509.26 on Airbnb, about £170 a night.

Meenu's tips, 2019

  • Get the 5-day Jungfrau Travel Pass. If you're getting the pass, the 5-day one comes with a free boat trip, and it's definitely worth it. We took the 5-day pass even though we were leaving in 4 days.
  • Play with the zoom as you film. On the iPhone, turn the zoom wheel while you shoot the video to get interesting depth as you pan.

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