Vietnam & Laos

Cao Bằng and Ban Gioc

In Meenu's words, 2024One of the most pretty border crossing waterfalls in the world!

We landed in Hanoi on the morning of 23 November and carried on north to Cao Bằng, close to the border with China. By the time we reached our room, Meenu had counted almost 33 hours of travel. Our executive suite was on the 17th floor of the Mường Thanh Luxury, and after sunset the sky over the river and the mountains turned a deep blue.

One morning began with a swim in the hotel's rooftop pool, up on the 20th floor, with a sweeping 180-degree view.

Ban Gioc Waterfall and the Trúc Lâm Bản Giốc pagoda are about two hours from Cao Bằng, right on the border. The falls spill down in white tiers between forested hills, and they have two names: Ban Gioc in Vietnam and Detian in China. From the pagoda's hill, the view runs out over rows of limestone peaks.

One quiet morning we had Thang Hen lake almost to ourselves, far from the tourist crowds. We also found Angel Eye mountain, a limestone peak with a hole right through it.

Ha Long Bay

In Meenu's words, 2024The huge pools overlooking the bay are perfect for long laps.

From the mountains we went to the sea. The Vinpearl resort sits on Rều Island, a private island in Ha Long Bay, and we had one night in a sea-view suite. Meenu loved the small touches, like coconut water, lychees and Vietnamese treats. Breakfast and a daily credit for the resort came with the room.

The next day we boarded the Stellar of the Seas for a night out on the bay. Seen from above, the ship sits on green water with the limestone islands lined up on the horizon. It was the most expensive night of the trip by far.

Tràng An and Tam Cốc

In Meenu's words, 2025The place is uniquely serene with no motor boat sounds, and only rowing that allows to enjoy nature and its sounds in tranquillity!

We had one night in Ninh Bình, in a suite at the Lalita Boutique Hotel, and fitted in as much as we could.

Tràng An is known for its boat trips through the caves, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. Local women row the boats. They took us through caves that were long, very low and narrow, and made it look like no trouble at all. There are no motorboats, only rowing, so the only sounds were the oars and the nature around us.

Tràng An also has halls hung from floor to ceiling with paper lanterns, glowing green, white, orange and blue. Meenu posed among them, and Praddy leaned on a pillar under the green and blue ones.

Nearby at Tam Cốc, rowing boats waited in rows along the bank, and the river wound away between limestone peaks.

Hang Múa and Bái Đính

In Meenu's words, 2024What a lovely surprise to spot so many water lilies and all blooming fresh!

Earlier in the trip we'd met a big Australian family, three generations travelling together. They had reached Ninh Bình's lily ponds after noon, found every flower closed, and told us to go earlier. We had no idea where we'd find any. Then at Hang Múa we came across a whole pond of water lilies, all freshly open.

Narrow walkways cross the pond, and from above they make the shape of a water lily. There are hikes from here up to the dragon and the pagoda, and Praddy sat for a photo inside a big metal wheel by the water.

Bái Đính is enormous. Its Tam Thế hall alone is 34 metres high and more than 59 metres long, built from Ninh Bình's own stone and timber with tiles from Bát Tràng village. Gilded Buddhas fill the halls, and by 2012 the pagoda held nine records, among them Asia's largest gilded bronze Buddha and its longest arhat corridor. Meenu knelt in front of one of the golden altars.

Đà Nẵng and Hội An

In Meenu's words, 2024Danang by night! Lively markets, dragon show, river cruise, lovely friends made.

After a night in Hanoi at the Oriental Jade, we flew down to Đà Nẵng on the afternoon of 29 November. We had two nights at the Radisson, in a corner suite with an ocean view, and could see the beach from the room.

Mornings were for laps in the rooftop infinity pool. From up there you look out over Đà Nẵng beach, the Lady Buddha and the whole coastline.

We spent an evening in Hội An. After dark the Japanese Covered Bridge glows gold above the water, and boats hung with lanterns float on the river below the old town.

Back in Đà Nẵng the nights are busy, with markets, the dragon show and cruises on the river, and we made new friends along the way. On 1 December we flew home through Saigon.

Tây Ninh and Saigon

In Meenu's words, 2025Serenity, peace and theater all in one.

We landed in Saigon at 4:40 in the morning on 21 November, after 17 hours in the air, and spent the first day in Tây Ninh on Núi Bà Đen, the mountain that rises over the plain. Its temples were full of lanterns, flowers, calligraphy and gilded statues. Praddy knelt before a golden figure with dozens of arms, and we stayed until after dark.

That night we slept at the Meliá Vinpearl Tây Ninh. The next day Meenu listed her cures for jet lag: the view of Bà Đen mountain and its Buddha from our room, a burst of energy in the gym, the spa, laps in the pool and a glass of mango juice.

Tây Ninh has more temples. Chùa Gò Kén has gilded Buddhas, prayer wheels, a tall pagoda and a long white reclining Buddha, and Meenu found the whole place a gentle reset. The Holy See in Hòa Thành, about 90 km northwest of Saigon, is the main temple of Caodaism. The faith was founded in southern Vietnam in 1926 and blends Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity, Islam, Spiritism and Vietnamese folk beliefs. Its towers are painted in soft yellows, pinks and blues, and dragons wind up the pillars inside.

Back in Saigon we had the Sofitel Saigon Plaza until the 24th. Its spa did a Shiatsu and warm bamboo massage, then steam, sauna, an anti-inflammatory shot and tea. Meenu rates two Indian restaurants as the best in the city: Dalcheeni, modern and upscale, and Banana Leaf, for a home-style thali on a banana leaf. We also saw Bửu Long pagoda and Pháp Viện Minh Đăng Quang.

Vientiane

In Meenu's words, 2025The golden stupa shimmering with evening sunset!

On 24 November we flew VietJet from Saigon to Vientiane, with our Lao e-visas approved in advance, for two nights at the Crowne Plaza.

We stood under the great stone arch of Patuxay, the city's victory monument. A golden reclining Buddha lies on a red base in a temple garden, and Meenu noted what the pose means: a reclining lion, entering enlightenment as all worldly desires come to an end.

From the drone, the golden stupa of Pha That Luang shimmered in the evening sun, with the city spread out around it. And Meenu found masala dosa in Laos, which made her very happy.

Vang Vieng

In Meenu's words, 2025Early morning serenity when the warm waters of turquoise blue lagoon meets the chilly air and creates a dreamy mist, as the sun pierces through the gaps between the leaves.

On 26 November we left Vientiane on the Laos–China Railway, in business class, with big red leather seats. Meenu rates it one of the most comfortable ways to get around Laos, and the line runs all the way to Kunming in China.

We had two nights at the Inthira Vang Vieng, in a suite with a view.

We went to the Blue Lagoon early in the morning and sat together on the bank in the mist. Once the sun is up, the water is a bright turquoise.

Luang Prabang

In Meenu's words, 2025Therapeutic morning walk through the jungle along with the lovely mother and baby elephants.

Our last three nights in Laos were in Luang Prabang, at My BanLao Hotel in the town centre.

On 30 November MandaLao collected us from the hotel at 7:45 for New Beginnings, their half day with the elephants. We walked through the jungle with mother and baby elephants. MandaLao works on conservation and rehabilitation, and Meenu was grateful that our visit helped.

At Kuang Si we sat on a deck beside the falls with freshly steeped ginger tea. For dinner, Manda de Laos serves Lao food and Lao-inspired drinks beside lily ponds that are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site, and Meenu calls it a must in Laos. On 1 December we flew on to Siem Reap.